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Fallang

[Photos by Jay Sturdevant]

Evening descended upon the Ou river in Laos, and still we had not found shelter. Our hand-scrawled map of the river was not drawn to scale. The next village could be mere minutes away, or many miles yet.

Arms sore, I laid down my paddle across the front of our canoe. Looking up at the towering limestone cliffs that enclosed both sides of the river, I asked the question on everyone’s mind:

“What if they don’t let us stay?”

We had encountered only one other village that day. They dismissed us with a simple head shake. Whether out of mistrust or misunderstanding, we didn’t know.

The canoe rounded a bend in the river. The American, James, sat up suddenly at the stern. “There it is!” he shouted, pointing towards the river’s edge.

Along the shore, women in argyle sarongs bathed themselves in the murky river water. A lone man in shorts scrubbed his laundry against a boulder. Children chased each other along the water’s edge. One child spotted our approaching canoe and halted.

Fallang!” the boy shouted out. Foreigners.

The villagers stopped and faced us. In the middle of our boat, Annike turned around towards Ellen. “Get the paper out.”

Ellen stopped bailing out water, then pulled out our Rosetta stone: a single piece of paper containing every phrase of Lao we knew.

Sabaidee!” she read aloud. “Náwn yuu nîi dâi baw?” Can we stay here tonight?

The villagers continued staring for a moment. The man turned to the women. The women shrugged. He faced us again, evaluating the four canoeing backpackers in front of him. A radiant smile dawned upon his face. He dived into the river, swam out to the canoe, and towed us back to shore.

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The Tyee

I’m working at The Tyee — an independent online magazine based in Vancouver — for the next several weeks.

Check out a few of my recent posts there:


Coffee is the new smoking. It seems like everyone’s trying to give it up. I’ve overheard it everywhere recently: “I’ve been trying to quit since last week / My friend’s felt fantastic since giving it up / My manager picked the wrong day to get in a fight with me, it’d been three days since I had a cup / Decaf makes me want to stab someone.”

The pros to cigarettes and coffee are almost identical. Both offer an amazing pick-me-up mental boost. Both serve as a great tool for social interaction. There’s no better way to start the day than a drag of smoke or a slurp of brew. However, they also leave you feeling edgy and twitchy. And darken pearly white teeth. And let’s not forget the hopeless addiction. Apart from the lung cancer, they’re basically the same vice.

Too extreme of a comparison? Perhaps. But consider the marketing behind both addictions. Not too many years ago, most advertisers portrayed smoking as the habit of the suave and sophisticated. Celebrities proudly endorsed their favourite brands. Marketers presented tobacco consumption as a cultural activity, an edifying practice.

Sound familiar?

1951 du Maurier ad

2008 Nespresso ad with George Clooney

Marketing has subtly turned a simple caffeinated beverage into a fashionable lifestyle, just as they did with cigarettes. Friends showed North America that cafes were the place to be. Celebrity powerhouses, such as George Clooney, have helped brands like Nespresso obtain global revenues nearing almost a billion dollars. And we, the consumers? We have gradually substituted one addiction for another, trading cigarette packs for soy lattes.

I’ve been both a smoker and a coffee fiend. I’ve managed to quit the cigarettes, but giving up coffee has been virtually impossible. I tried joining the abstinence trend last week by switching to tea, the caffeine addict’s methadone. But it’s just not the same high. Besides, the battle was lost from the moment the coffee beans in the kitchen cupboard began to whisper my name.

Nicorette marketers take note: caffeine patches will be the next big thing.

Top photo credit: Thought Sparks

I don’t normally associate drinking and dancing with municipal politics, but tonight was a unique showcase. Vision Vancouver held their results party at Science World, complete with live music, a dance floor, and of course, a cash bar.

The results were originally forecast to be announced at 9:30 pm. Because of massive voter turnout however (over 4400 voters), the final count wasn’t announced until just before midnight (after much dancing by party members to cheesy ’80s tunes).

Officially elected as Vision Vancouver City Council nominees are Raymond Louie, Heather Deal, Tim Stevenson, George Chow, Andrea Reimer, Geoff Meggs, and Kerry Jang.

However, the eighth and final position on the council slate is still contested. A recount is underway between Kashmir Dhaliwal and David Eby, for their votes fell within the error of margin (a difference of 17 votes in favour of Dhaliwal). The official recount could take up to 72 hours, so it may not be until Tuesday night before we know who the eighth candidate is.

A dramatic night overall. The final wait for a decision between Dhaliwal and Eby proves once again that every single vote truly does count.

Quick field notes from tonight’s Vision Vancouver City Council Nominees debate:

- 17 nominees are contesting for one of Vision’s eight City Council slots.

- Mayoral candidate Gregor Roberston has endorsed incumbents George Chow, Heather Deal, Raymond Louie, and Tim Stevenson. This may all but guarantee them a nomination.

- The nominees were divided into groups of four. Each group was asked two questions by a panel of journalists from the Tyee, 24 Hours, and the West Ender.

- All nominees generally focused on the same core issues: homelessness, affordable housing, transit, the environment, and the overall failure of the NPA to invoke political willpower.

- Group 1 consisted of Catherine Evans, Heather Deal, Vaune Adams Kolber, and Andrew Dewberry. Heather Deal dominated the first group, displaying a depth of understanding regarding Vancouver’s transit and recycling problems. Last-minute nominee Dewberry constantly brought up the over-hyped “treefort saga”, and struggled to present any big-picture solutions to the city’s problems. His heart’s in the right place, but he’ll need several more years involved with community affairs before he’s ready to tackle city council.

- Kerry Jang, Kashmir Dhaliwal, Geoff Meggs, and George Chow formed Group 2. Jang was by far one of the smoothest talkers of the night, responding articulately to the panel’s question regarding drug treatment centers and NIMBY (”Not In My BackYard”) attitudes. George Chow won the crowd over with his self-effacing sense of humour. Chow and Jang emphasized the use of government endowment lands for the use of building affordable housing.

- Group 3 was made up of “Heather and the three Raymonds”: Heather Harrison, Raymond Louie, Ray Lam, and Rey Umlas. All four nominees agreed that ticketing the homeless for sleeping in the street was ineffective, if not stupid, and promised not to continue that NPA strategy. Umlas’s energetic responses were invigorating, energetic, and a bit vague all at once. Ray Lam deserves an honourable mention for giving the most honest answer of the night. When asked what his solution would be for middle-class renters unable to afford the rising rent prices in Vancouver, he honourably admitted that he had no immediate answer to such a complex question instead of rambling nonsensically. Props to Lam for his honesty.

- The final group comprised of Tim Stevenson, Doug Bencze, David Eby, Demitri Douzenis, and Andrea Reimer. Reimer and Eby shined most brightly of the four, fielding questions on civil liberties and safe housing with ease. Douzenis was strong on passion, but weak on policy. Benz and Stevenson both felt that the Provincial and Federal government need to be brought in to solve Vancouver’s drug and homeless problems.

A fascinating night overall. With nine days left till the nomination vote on September 20th, the Vision Vancouver City Council slate is still anyone’s game.

“Pleasantly shocked” best describes my reaction to David Eby’s announcement today that he is seeking a nomination for City Council for the November elections, and will be running under Vision Vancouver’s flag.

If you don’t know who David is, here’s a quick run-down: he’s a social activist lawyer who has worked with the Pivot Legal Society for the past three years, and has become one of the leading advocates for social housing and homeless rights in the Downtown Eastside. He co-authored the 2006 Cracks in the Foundation report, which exposed the numerous roots and causes of the housing/homeless crisis in Vancouver. In a short amount of time, he has become a leading human rights activist in the city and a noble example of how one person alone can make a difference.

I interviewed Mr. Eby a few weeks ago for a profile piece. I was convinced he wouldn’t make his election bid until the next term in 2011. However, I’m glad that he’s making his move sooner than later. If there’s one person that Vancouver needs on the city council to prevent the city from further becoming a property developer’s playground at the cost of basic human rights, it’s him.

Photo of David Eby courtesy of The Blackbird

The needle on the instructor’s altimeter reaches 10,000 feet. The plane’s exit door is thrown wide open. Outside, the wind howls. Beside me, a fellow jumper screams. The reality of what’s next sinks in.

The tandem pair in front goes first. Within three seconds, they cartwheel out of the plane and disappear into the blue horizon. My instructors taps me on the shoulder.

“We’re next!”

Second thoughts. What the hell am I doing? This is not the way to get over heartache. A bottle of tequila would have been so much wiser.

No time to protest. My legs suddenly dangle off the plane’s edge. No countdown is given, no “are you ready?” offered. The instructor simply leaps forward, pushes us outwards.

The plane disappears. The world below opens wide.

***

I have been terrorized by heights since birth. Childhood nightmares involved plummets toward the earth at terminal velocity. I shut my eyes tightly every time we drove over a bridge. Ladders and diving boards inspired mistrust and vertigo.

As an adult, nightmares became daymares every time I flew overseas. Though a devout atheist, I lapsed briefly back into a repentant Catholic on take-offs and landings, and sought divine intervention from bottles of wine in between.

Heights and flying, flying and heights. Skydiving combined these ultimate two fears into a package of sheer terror. For years, I promised myself I would one day take that plunge and face those fears. Only talk, however. One day I would be wheeled around in a retirement home, still promising to take a dive.

At least, that would have been the case, had it not been for an uncalculated moment of insanity caused by the end of a relationship. One moment I was at home, feeling sorry for myself and counting the number of bumps on the stucco walls. The next, I was in the grass fields of the skydiving centre in Abbotsford, receiving instructions on how to tandem dive.

The lesson lasted no more than five minutes. Cross your legs and arms. Tilt up your head. Arch your back as you plummet toward the earth. Safety lessons for paint ball games last longer. Jump gear was handed out: technicolour jumpsuits, tight leather caps and goggles. Circus carnie clothing, appropriate for being shot out of a cannon.

Like a death-row inmate minutes away from execution, a strange calm of acceptance descended as we approached the plane. Packed together tighter than passengers in a Guatemalan chicken bus, nothing was said as the plane took off and climbed cloudwards. The tandem instructors tied themselves to their human cargo. The plane became parallel with the summit of Mount Baker. Gravity eagerly awaited our descent.

***

My brain blue-screens as we fall through the atmosphere. The utmost important rules of survival had been violated: thou shall not jump from insane heights. Mental computation is impossible: invalid operation, situation cannot be processed.

It’s pure serenity as we free-fall. Momentary nirvana in the atmosphere. No desires. No doubts. No worries about ex-girlfriends, dead-end jobs, or economic futures. Rinzai Zen Buddhists call it sudden enlightenment: instantaneous understanding of the universe, caused by an intense, shocking experience. The ground dances below as we approach it at several thousand feet a minute. For sixty seconds or sixty-thousand years, everything is in its right place.

There is a whoosh as the parachute deploys. We’re jerked violently upwards, torn away from gravity’s grasp. Caught in the safety of the chute, the brain reboots. Reality comes back online.

It is only then that I remember to scream.

***

I babble incessantly to the tandem instructor as we float downwards. Thank you so much, this is the greatest moment of my life. He struggles to share my enthusiasm. He’s jumped ten times already this day, and many thousands of times before that.

“Let’s do some spins,” he says. He yanks hard at one of chute’s toggles, and sends us into a horizontal spiral. It shuts me up for a few minutes as the world whirls round.

***

There’s a scene in James Clavell’s Shogun where the novel’s protagonist attempts seppuku, only to be stopped at the last moment. For the next several days, the protagonist lives in a transcendent state of awareness. Having tasted death for a brief moment, the perception of reality becomes altered. Life is brighter, more vibrant.

Below our feet, Vancouver spreads out like a quilted patchwork. The grass glows neon. The horizon holds no boundary. Held tightly in the parachute’s embrace, the world below has never looked more promising.

Photo courtesy of Tandem Skydiving Hawaii

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